My European Trip, Part 10: Finale

A round-up of vacation thoughts that were interesting, but not interesting enough to warrant individual blog posts:

The Illusion of Soft Culture:

In some ways, visiting a culture that is blatantly and outrageously different on the surface is probably better than going to some cultures in that seem to only have superficial surface differences from America. In the former, you get a really extreme and intense culture shock up front, which causes you to tread carefully and pay close attention throughout because you’re always hyper-aware and conscious of cultural differences.

Places like Amsterdam and Stockholm, on the other hand, are very superficially similar to America.  You’re surrounded by trendy clothing, hip-hop music at all the clubs, guys and girls rapping along to all the lyrics and grinding on the dance floor like they’re in a hip-hop video, lots of American slang and sitcom catchphrases (“How you doing?”), Chuck Taylor All-Star sneakers everywhere, Coca Cola and McDonald’s everywhere you turn, posters everywhere for the latest American movie blockbusters.  So you feel familiar right away, become careless and don’t pay attention to cultural differences as much as you should.  This underestimation of cultural differences makes accidentally offending people and crossing boundaries actually more likely than they would be in a culture radically different than America because you get really comfortable, stop walking on eggshells and start assuming that everything that’s okay at home in America is acceptable abroad.

I found something off in a lot of conversations I had abroad at first before I figured this out. Great conversations would turn stale and then weird, and I didn’t realize until later that cultural misunderstanding was responsible. What helped was when I met some Europeans who spent significant time in America, and thus knew not just the soft culture of America, but also its hard internal culture too. These people were the ones who helped explain to me the little things I couldn’t figure out.

You should always be wary of countries that have a long history of being culturally and racially homogenous (which basically covers almost every country out there except America probably). These are particularly hard to penetrate because so many aspects of their social dynamics are intuitive and unspoken. As an analogy, think of interactions with your family versus interactions with new roommates. With your family, you’ve had years developing common context, you grew up with each other, and the background to every interaction doesn’t need to be spelled out and fully explained. You develop various communication shorthands because you share so much background and have so many shared experiences.  There’s a lot of implicit understanding that can be exchanged just through a look or a gesture that would totally fly over an outsider’s head if you tried it on them. Compared to an outsider, you can read between the lines with each other more, finish each others’ sentences and seemingly read each others’ minds. You instinctively know when the other is joking or not.

Now picture times of your life when you’ve had new roommates.  You’ve shared much less common experiences and background. Suddenly explicit explanation becomes more important. There’s no implicit understanding of boundaries and personal space, there are less shared habits and attitudes, a lot of lines need to be clearly drawn in the sand, and a lot of concerns need to be clearly voiced in order to peacefully coexist. You have to tread carefully to avoid misunderstandings. There is also less patience with putting up with roommates because you are not tied to them like you are to family. Idiosyncracies that your family would either share with you or have learned to ignore from you now become an issue.

America is the country of “new roommates.” Because we’re such a mix of cultures, and have been from almost the beginning, and that mix of culture keeps changing with the constant addition of new immigrant groups, we don’t have quite the same level of implicit familiarity you find in countries where cultural and racial homogeneity where the norm for most their existence. For many countries outside of the U.S., diversity is still a new relatively concept, an experiment if you will.

European countries are countries that have been “families” for most of their existence that have only recently started allowing new roommates to move in with them. And the more culturally and racially homogenous a country remains, the more it is like a close-knit family. People are used to being implicitly understood. People are not used to explaining everything in explicit terms as possible. People are used to reading between the lines and understanding each other’s motivations for doing things, as they all come from similar backgrounds, races and shared cultural experiences.

I had lunch with some people in Stockholm and they explained to me all the differences in culture I wasn’t picking up on. I consider myself pretty good at spotting social dynamics, and even I was shocked at how much social nuances I was missing. They also explained that Scandinavians were not as used to explaining their culture to people because they didn’t have to until recently. Immigration was not as widespread as it had become recently, and it was not as popular with tourists as some other countries where the tourism industry is so huge that tourists become part of the fabric of the country’s daily life. On the flipside, American culture seems easier for outsiders to understand because we talk, dissect and explain our culture constantly and openly, in our opinion news articles, our movies and TV shows, our documentaries, and our social science books. Because we don’t assume the existence of shared backgrounds and experiences as much as most other countries, we unconsciously have become used to dissecting and explaining and learning about our cultural idiosyncracies.

The “roommates” dynamic is what is called “low-context communication,” the “family” dynamic is what is called “high-context communication.”  Americans are used to low-context communication, while most other cultures are more used to high-context communication.  In fact, this is a big reason as to why Hollywood movies and foreign films are traditionally so different.  The films of Hollywood are traditionally extremely low-context, which is why they have such broad appeal, domestically and abroad.  European films however have always been high-context, requiring the viewer to pay more attention to subtext, implication, body language and subtle facial expressions.

The Americanization of popular culture throughout the developed Western world makes Americans believe that the similarities between all cultures in the west are much deeper and more profound than they actually are, leaving them oblivious to just how different values can be from country to country in the West. (On a side note, this is also starting to happen in other places as well.  The Westernization of much of the Eastern hemisphere is starting to create the same fallacy, which is why western leaders often make mistakes in assessing the cultures and governments found in places like China, North Korea, Russia and Muslim countries. Samuel Huntington’s book The Clash of Civilizations and the Remaking of World Order talks about this problem, for example how a young Muslim may put on a pair of Levis’ jeans, put on an Ipod playing pop music, drink a Coca-Cola and take off to bomb an embassy. His superficial appearances and habits imply a total acceptance of Western lifestyle, but his core internal values are still fundamentally those of his home culture. The post-9/11 world really made this problem apparent.)

Flip-Flops

My whole time there, I did not see that fashion scourge popular among American women, the dreaded flip-flops. Not a single girl was wearing flip-flops outdoors, even to Sunday brunch. This post is a scathing critique of flip-flops. Flip-flops have even become acceptable for reporters to wear on the national news. Flip-flops have become so socially acceptable among the 20-something and younger set that members of the Northwestern University female lacrosse team wore flip-flops when meeting the President at the White House in 2005! The last straw was when a friend of mind told me he saw a young douche on the subway headed to work in a dress suit and…flip-flops!!! My friend asked what was up with the flip-flops and the guy said he just wore them on the commute for comfort. What the fuck?! Just the sound of hearing the clop-clop-clop sound of heel slapping plastic all around you as you walk around New York is enough to drive you crazy. The sight of the accumulated black dirt on a girl’s heels make it even worse.

In Stockholm and Amsterdam, I never saw flip-flops. Not once.  Also although I didn’t go to Eastern Europe, I met many Eastern Europeans while in Western Europe and not only did they never wear flip-flops, they never even seemed to even wear flats. I asked a woman, a Latvian, about whether my observation about Eastern Europeans was on point or not, and she said it was true. She said she actually didn’t even own any flats (and saw no reason to), except for one pair of sneakers she used if she had to hike or exercise. I shed a tear.

Part of me thought she was exaggerating or pulling my leg until someone showed me these two videos out of Russia:

Rules:

You can see evidence of a country’s overall national character very much in the little things that country’s people do. For example, in Stockholm no one would cross against a traffic light. Even if there were no cars coming from either direction as far as the eye could see, no one would cross unless the traffic signal gave them the okay. In NY, people are itching for any break in the traffic to exploit in order to cross the street, regardless of what the traffic signal displays. I think it speaks a lot about each country’s attitude toward symbols of authority. This country, after all, was founded on resistance to authority figures if you think about it.

Legs

The legs on women in Stockholm and Amsterdam were great. I don’t think I saw a pair of bad legs or cankles at all while there. It’s got to be all the walking and biking.

In Stockholm you walk all the time. Unless it’s an impractical distance to walk or you are in danger of being late, you are going to be walking to where you have to go. Even if you have a long distance to cover to go home, you’ll probably walk. Going to the afterparty while drunk and in your club clothes? You’ll probably still do the walk, even if it’s 15 or 20 minutes. Drunk off your ass and a twenty minutes or a half hour from home? You may still walk.

Distances that most Americans would call a taxi for are totally natural to walk for Swedish people. I walked everywhere all the time, and no matter what time it was there were plenty of other people taking long walks too. I could be walking back to my hotel at 5 AM and see someone else taking a long walk at 5 AM too, walking in front of me for 20 minutes.

I love walking, so I was right at home. While there though I thought about all my friends back home, some of whom are even gym rats and exercise freaks that will kill the cardio machine, that absolutely hate real world walking. I can have friends that crush the stairmaster daily but bitch if we have to walk a block too far from the car to the bar. Even as a gym cardio lover myself, I’ve got to say that I never got weight loss results as drastic as what I got from walking everywhere I needed to go in Europe. I would just add an extra 15-20 minutes for everywhere I had to go and instead of taking a train or bus or taxi I’d walk. Over the course of a day I must have covered miles. I also spent my mornings and afternoons doing walking tours from my guidebook and inviting total strangers along.

I hate to sound like a typical American Europhile snob (and anyone who reads this blog knows I hate that type), but even I have to admit: I totally see why Americans are so much fatter than Europeans. Gyms aren’t even fashionable there as they are here in America yet people looked great and were on average in better shape just by being less lazy and incorporating more activity in their every day lives. Cumulatively all that walking really adds up over time.

In Amsterdam, it’s not just walking but bikes also. People bike everywhere. The whole city is built to be bike-friendly, and there are actually more bikes than people, estimated at 1.5-2 bikes per person. You see businessmen in suits commuting to work on bikes, hot girls made up and dressed to the nines in eveningwear headed to and from the supertrendy club on bikes, stumbling drunk guys and girls getting on bikes and cycling groggily home. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 in the morning and you will see people biking around. Apparently bike theft is so common people don’t want to invest too much in a nice bike, so you won’t see much of those multithousand dollar bikes that are popular with yuppies here. Bikes are the hot commodity there.

There is no bicycle stigma. I didn’t meet a single person there who owned a car, and you can even show up on a date with a bicycle and not be labeled a loser if you are a guy. A woman can get made up and look glamorous yet show up to her date on a bicycle too. No expectations of the guy showing up in a nice car like in America.

Anyway, it’s no wonder that great legs are so common there. No homo, but even a lot of the guys had great legs too. Guess that’s why so many of them can get away with those skinny jeans. I met one chubby, Seth Rogen sized guy there, the only fat guy I met on the whole trip. Life sucked for him, he said. I told him to come to America where he’d be “average.”

True Stereotypes:

I did my research for this trip backwards. Rather than study the cultures beforehand, I did no research on cultural etiquette. I didn’t want to be biased and arrive with prejudgments. I wanted all my conclusions to be made from firsthand experience or from things I learned directly from natives. After I came back, though, I did a lot of cultural research to see if the conclusions I made matched what the accepted stereotypes were.

Even though I was only in two cities, Stockholm and Amsterdam, I met tourists and transplanted Europeans from a lot of different countries, to the point I feel comfortable in making generalizations about more than just two European countries. Based on what I experienced myself, I think this series of links below from the site Daily Candor are the most accurate descriptions I’ve seen of European stereotypes that are true:

Muslims

Based on my readings before I arrived in Europe, I expected the political correctness in day-to-day life there to be utterly oppressive and stifling. So I was quite surprised to see how open people were about Muslim-bashing there.

It seems that in public discourse, in political speeches and initiatives and in the mass media, political correctness and avoidance of offending Muslims is the norm. The political correctness of our media has nothing on what goes on there. It’s so bad that you can basically tell when a crime story there is about a Muslim because they’ll conveniently omit any hint of name, race or religion.

So it caught me quite off-guard when I found the people on the street to be incredibly blunt about their frustration or outright dislike of Muslims. Once people felt you out and could tell you wouln’t be offended, they’d cut loose in one-on-one interactions, especially when liquor was involved. People there seem sick of the political correctness, of the refusal of Muslims to assimilate, and the supposedly disrespectful way Africans and Muslims approached the white European women.

Apparently Muslims hear so much about the hedonism of the West that they expect European women to be total whores that require minimum effort to bed, and often approach them in such a way. They then get disappointed when the reality turns out to not be true, or a total media-fueld exaggeration. I heard about the frustration Muslim immgrants experience over this disconnect is even worse in Eastern Europe. I heard many Europeans in these supposedly open and egalitarian cities making approving remarks when a bouncer would refuse a “ghetto” African entry, saying things like “Thank goodness.” One girl even told me “We’re not racist, they just don’t know how to act civil or treat women with decency. You’re black, but you’re classy, handsome and well-mannered. If they could be the same as you, they wouldn’t have the problems they do.” I didn’t know if I should be offended or not. It’s like when I was growing up and white kids would tell me I was one of the “good blacks” like it was supposed to be a compliment (hated that).

That being said, I began to understand their dilemma. First off, multiculturalims is quite new for them. It’s that “family” vs. “neighbor” dynamic I described earlier in the post. We in American have always had a low-context “neighbor” dynamic. Getting new “neighbors” in the form of immigrants is not as big a deal for us. For them, they are going from a longtime high-context “family” dynamic to an open door unlimited “neighbors” dynamic overnight. And to make it worse, the “neighbors” don’t want to learn any of the family’s rules or traditions or customs yet still want to take advantage of everything the family has to offer.

You can definitely feel the tension betwen Muslims (both the Middle Eastern and black African variety) and Europeans all over. I even found myself starting to experiencing some of the same discomfort. I started understanding why even in simple encounters they can be off-putting. A lot of it stems from different social customs and body language rules. For example eye contact is much more intense and off-putting from the Middle Eastern muslims I met, and the acceptable personal space was very different. A guy would have no problem standing inches from my face with an intense, eye-to-eye stare while asking me for directions or where the bathroom was. I’d unconsciously take a step back to reintroduce distance and they’d just keep closing the gap automatically, oblivious to the fact that they were too close. It wasn’t done deliberately to make me uncomfortable, they guy was just socially clueless until I put my hand up to stop him from closing the distance again.

If it made me uncomfortable and I’m a big guy who can take care of himself, I can only imagine how it made women feel. Women have to constantly keep in mind that they are physically weaker than men and can be in danger at any time, so they are extra sensitive to sensations of creepiness and personal space.

I predict a strong, grassroots opposition movement of conservatism from Scandinavia and the rest of Western Europe that will blindside the sitting politicians and the mainstream obnoxiously liberal media totally off-guard in the next few years. I heard similar things have happened in Finland recently as conservatives won major election victories there last Sunday that no one saw coming.

Male Fashion

It’s harder to be a high-fashion guy in Europe. In America, the average man is so afraid of being bold and sexual in any way that he is constantly thinking in terms of what he is unwilling to wear rather than what he is willing to try. American men dress thinking how not to offend, how not to stand out and how not to be mistaken as a fag due to tight fit or bold colors. Grey, blue, khaki, repeat. Dullsville. Thus, over here, a guy like me who actually wears clothes that fit, takes a little risk with color selection and is willing to wear pointy shoes or shop at someplace other than the Gap is considered a top-notch dresser. I get complimented here as having a “European” style of dressing.

Over there every person has a European style of dressing. It’s Europe! I was told that I had to dress nice to get into the exclusive clubs there without being on the guestlist. I put on my best outfits, the ones that get me to skip lines and get into top clubs here in NY, and door people were utterly unimpressed. An outfit that an American guy would find risky was just tame and boring there. You have to dress at another level to have above-average style there.

I’m not sure if I want to ever be that metrosexual though, especially at the Stockholm level of male fashion. I’m 34 years old, fuck that. I accept defeat in that department.

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  1. David Alexander posted the following on October 29, 2008 at 9:34 PM.

    Somehow, you managed to come up with a much better vacation write up that touched on multiple issues without sounding like an idiot. A heck of a lot better than my Bay Area write up from a few months ago. Admittedly, I’m very appreciative especially of the last two sections which will be important for any American traveler when overseas.

    As for flip-flops, I’m much more forgiving of them compared to you. While I have a strong high heel shoe fetish, I don’t think the flip flops are as offensive, and depending on the situation, they’re a lot sexier and better looking than the crappy ass flats and ballet shoes that I’ve seen women sport around New York. Regardless of my fetish, I’m in no position to go demand that women wear shoes that aren’t comfortable which is sad since while high heel stilettos can be sexy, feminine, and fashionable, these can inflict much short-term and long-term pain. Yeah, there are wedges and chunky heels, but they’re not much better in some cases, or they’re not as aesthetically pleasing. My mom and a number of older women that used to wear high heels in their youth can create a lasting impression.

    I suspect American women are more likely to sport flip-flops due to our warmer and humid summers along with our lack of formality in our culture. Interestingly, where I work, the black girls are more likely to sport high heels than the white girls…

    As for jaywalking, I had to keep that in mind when I was in the Bay Area. In some areas downtown, it was acceptable, but in the ‘burbs it was just an invitation to a ticket from a police officer…

  2. Bj?rn posted the following on October 30, 2008 at 5:26 AM.

    First off, multiculturalims is quite new for them. It?s that ?family? vs. ?neighbor? dynamic I described earlier in the post. We in American have always had a ?neighbor? dynamic. And to make it worse, the ?neighbors? don?t want to learn any of the family?s rules or traditions or customs but want to take advantage of everything the family has to offer.

    In my opinion there’s an another factor here too. In your country immigrants have to start working quite soon after arrival if they want to get food. In Sweden and Finland on the other hand, they can spend a lot of time sucking free money from the government. The taxation in these countries also punishes working severely, so you can guess which type we attract more, the working or the social case.

    In my IT job there are some educated and well behaving muslim guys who work here because of easy immigration but their goal after gaining some experience is to move to US or UK, where they will be better paid and less taxed.

    The conclusion doesn’t look good for my country. :(

  3. T. AKA Ricky Raw posted the following on October 30, 2008 at 8:02 AM.

    In my opinion there?s an another factor here too. In your country immigrants have to start working quite soon after arrival if they want to get food. In Sweden and Finland on the other hand, they can spend a lot of time sucking free money from the government. The taxation in these countries also punishes working severely, so you can guess which type we attract more, the working or the social case.

    America is having similar problems with high taxation and immigrants sucking free money, but mainly in its big cities. If you go to places like New York City, you have lots of high taxation on the middle class but very little on the lower classes and the extremely rich are able to take advantage of tax loopholes.

    But nothing beats California. In California, the amount of social services unskilled illegal Mexicans can receive is astounding. Driver’s licenses, health care, reduced college tuition, entitlements, and the list goes on. Check out these articles on “Mexifornia” by Victor David Hansonn (he also wrote a book by the same name):

    http://www.city-journal.org/ht....._want.html
    http://www.city-journal.org/ht.....ornia.html

  4. jaakkeli posted the following on October 31, 2008 at 10:41 AM.

    I heard similar things have happened in Finland recently as conservatives won major election victories there last Sunday that no one saw coming.

    That was municipal elections, so it shouldn’t be a big deal, but somehow it still is. The big news was that a former “joke” party that finally ran on immigration criticism rose from 0.9 % to 5.4 %, nationally – of course the most in those areas with significant immigration and little in the rest, so the places that are supposed to be the shiny cosmopolitan examples of happy coexistence ended up with the nationalists as one of the local big parties.

    So, everyone can see the writing on the wall. With the lack of a nationalist party the left has been happily dreaming that everything is fine, giving us the line that Finland is special, we’re avoiding the mistakes of others, blah blah, and now that was blown away. A minister blurted out something incredibly stupid about banning anti-immigration opinions from city councils, professors of sociology are threatening with protest suicide (well at least one did), you can guess it. After 5.4 % of the vote.

  5. Erik posted the following on November 1, 2008 at 9:15 AM.

    As a Stockholmer with a Swedish mother and a Dutch father I enjoyed your travel diary tremendously… (as well as your Rearden tactics in handling Passive Aggressors… I’m somewhat of an Ayn Rand “fan” myself).

    Your observations were extremely accurate, indeed.

    Erik

  6. ChicNoir posted the following on November 2, 2008 at 7:12 PM.

    While there though I thought about all my friends back home, some of whom are even gym rats and exercise freaks that will kill the cardio machine, that absolutely hate real world walking.

    I hate that I hate it I hate it. I have friends who will drive 2 blocks to the supermarket to pick up a roll of paper towels.

    As you know, I think Americans who live in larger cities should consider walking and biking to save money.

  7. ChicNoir posted the following on November 2, 2008 at 7:31 PM.

    i>I?d unconsciously take a step back to reintroduce distance and they?d just keep closing the gap, oblivious to the fact that they were too close.
    LOLROF I?ve had this experience too my friend. You can laugh about it later but as it?s happening you feel so uncomfortable.

    You?re black, but you?re classy, handsome and well-mannered. If they could be the same as you, they wouldn?t have the problems they do.? I didn?t know if I should be offended or not. It?s like when I was growing up and white kids would tell me I was one of the ?good blacks? like it was supposed to be a compliment (hated that-ME TOO).
    Good for you. For some reason I can see our fellow blk DA doing a buck dance and a shuffle foot if he received the same compliment.

    over here, a guy like me who actually wears clothes that fit, takes a little risk with color selection and is willing to wear pointy shoes or shop at someplace other than the Gap is considered a top-notch dresser
    You sound like my type of guy minus the Obama hate. I love a man who dresses well and takes chances. To bad you are already taken.
    *stomps foot*
    BTW,dressing well does not equal metro sexual.

  8. Ruff posted the following on November 7, 2008 at 5:18 PM.

    I’m not gonna lie…i love a chick in some flip-flops. Probably because flip-flops dance on and over the line between casual and sloppy.

    Flip-flops are the ultimate “don’t give a fuck-hang loose” foot apparel. And i’ve noticed that when chicks walk around in them they adopt that “don’t give a fuck-hang loose” walk. Like they’re just throwing their legs out in front of them. They seem to let their hips follow and fall with no consideration towards comportment.

    It makes me “fill up” a little bit, to be honest.

    I also where flipflops all the time, because i truly don’t give a fuck.

    But just be aware ladies. That “flip-flop-walk.” A not so subtle giveaway about your attitude about yourself.

  9. Dynamo Kiev posted the following on November 11, 2008 at 5:19 PM.

    Dynamo Kiev here — just discovered that you had your own blog while reading Roissy’s. Great stuff here — I totally agree with 99% of it. When you’re ready for a truly big cultural shock, go to Russia. Forget other Eastern European countries — BG, RO, MD, CZ, PL, etc… they are already pretty Western. Russia will put the Raw back into Ricky.

  10. Dan posted the following on April 22, 2009 at 2:10 PM.

    Another link update – the flip-flops link is http://www.bangsandabun.com/flip-off (I hate flip-flops, I had to find it).

    I lived in Germany for the better half of a year, and the fashion part hit me hard. It was Germany, for chrissakes, not Italy or France, and I still felt like a schlub for wearing khakis and a polo shirt (and I was the kind of guy who wore those for special occasions). Sure, I was in the city, but even when I went into the country, people didn’t dress “American,” they dressed like farmers/bakers/butchers should – and it was still old-world charm all the way. And back in the city, I was getting shown up by god damn high-schoolers.

    When I came back to the states, I had a wardrobe that was still a little under European par, but certainly enough to pass respectably through bars and restaurants over there. But after a week of being back, I realized I had to change back to the old ways – it was almost awkward to dress European over here. For one, while any man could walk down the street wearing a scarf over there (on a cold day, obviously), when I tried it back here I would get looks – and not good ones. Male friends would break balls, female friends would joke about metrosexuality. The thing that drove me crazy was the fact that unlike the million-and-one things that people are falsely attributing to societal expectations over here (gender roles, etc.), the idea that scarves (and other comparable clothing items) are feminine, gay, or metrosexual really IS a societal expectation – and why? It keeps your neck warm, and it looks good, goddamit. Then again, I wasn’t living in a cultural center at the time, but the point still stands.

    So I went back to my American ways, and when I went back for a month that summer, I felt like a total schlub again.


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